BASSWHISTLE CONSTRUCTION

MATERIALS:

Headjoint:

Main Headjoint Section, 6 inches of 1 1/2" PVC Sched. 40 grade with 16.6w by 25.6h mm slot cut out for windway. Make sure to debur the inside of the pipe at all times. File a ramp at the end of the notch for the fipple both on the inside of the pipe and the outside.

Glue round block of wood in place 1.585 diameter by 0.9 in long. The end of the block should be 0.525 inches away from the ramp. Cut a corner off of the block to encourage the air to flow smoothly into the windway. Sand it until the entrance is rounded and smooth.

Take the 2 1/2 inch long coupler and cut a 0.78 in wide by 0.46" long slot for the fipple walls. Sand away the ribs of the coupler in the area where you cut the slot. This is to prevent the air going through this channel from being tripped by the 'bump' created by the rib.

Cut a 1 1/2" piece of 1 1/2" diameter Sched. 40 PVC and slide it into the non-slotted side of the coupler. Smooth the pipe transition in the area where the rib was sanded away. Think 'aerodynamics' when you cut this.

Place the coupler with the small piece of PVC pipe unto the Headjoint main section and line up the slot with the end of the block.

Take a 1 1/2" PVC Cap and drill a 1/2" hole in the side close to the closed end of the cap. Take a piece of 1/2" Brass tubing at 7 inches long and cut a 1 1/2" section out of it as shown. Drill a couple of holes in it for the glue to sink in and glue this windpipe into the cap through the small 1/2" hole. I recommend Polyurethane glue or Gorrilla glue.

Place the cap assembly over the small piece of PVC with windpipe on the opposite side of the fipple opening. You may wish to make a piece of wood that cover the brass windpipe, brass is hard on the teeth.

You should be able to blow on this and get a note out of it. Cover the end and get a nice deep note.

Add another 1 1/2" coupler to the end and the headjoint is ready for the instrument body.

Tonebody:

Cut 40 1/2" of 1 1/2" diameter PVC pipe for the tone body. You will need a marker to mark the toneholes, degree markings, spring pites and fulcrum mounting holes.

Degree Markings on pipe:

Copy this degree marking template with a magnification set so that the circle is 1.9 inch diameter. Cut out the circle and slip the marked paper of the tubing. Mark each degree position with a felt marker.

These markings are used to position the keys and toneholes on the whistle.

Each key has the same dimensions except for the PVC surface width.

From the center of each tonehole will be the relative offsets for the axis and spring pit.

Tonehole Keys:

Use Frost King Thin 3/4" wide PVC closed cell adhesive foam under key to seal tonehole. Do not use felt or cork - the foam allows for uneven surfaces to seal.

Flatten the PVC Fragment in a vise to properly fit the pipe. Use a torch to relax the material to prevent it from return back to its original form.

Drill small holes in copper square stock and on PVC fragment to help glue to hold better. Alternatively, you could use screws to hold it together.

Use 1/4" wide Model car universal joint for axis. Cut Flush

From Center each tonehole:

 Spring Pit: 30.08 mm

 Axis:  45.04 mm

End of lever key should connect with tonehole key.

Cut lever hole axis (Model car universal joint) with 1/8" of stem material form the base. (see picture below)

Lever Key Pivot Axis

Handles:  Cut to your own likeing:

Use #2-56tpi screws with locknuts on each pivot axis post.

Tonehole Lever Pivot Axis

Tonehole Positions				
BUILD SHEET				C
INSTRUMENT BASE:		C 	PVC	

Bore Dia:	1.6			

NOTE	PITCH (Hz)Diam.	Pos. (in) Pos. (mm)
C 	130.81			
D	146.83	0.750	7.449	189.209
E	164.81	0.750	12.481	317.006
F	174.61	0.500	15.281	388.130
G	196.00	0.750	18.850	478.796
A	220.00	0.750	22.665	575.692
B 	246.94	0.750	25.951	659.161